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Marrickville, Sydney’s inner-west hub, has become synonymous with a vibrant food scene. Amongst the established favourites, a new eatery has quietly opened its doors, promising a focus on fresh produce with a 90s throwback. 20 Chapel, the brainchild of a seasoned culinary team, is a neighbourhood bistro with a touch of understated elegance.
Steering the ship is Corey Costelloe, formerly the culinary director at Rockpool Bar & Grill. Partnering with him are David Allison, chef and owner of Stix Farm on the Hawkesbury River, and Anthony Qalilawa, the former maitre d’ at Rockpool. Together, they bring a wealth of experience and a passion for quality ingredients to the table.
Stepping into 20 Chapel, the industrial-chic aesthetic feels familiar yet fresh. Dark marble accents and plush velvet curtains create a sophisticated yet inviting atmosphere. The 64-seat dining room allows for a comfortable experience, while a dedicated chef’s table offers a unique perspective into the culinary theatre.
The menu itself reflects a commitment to simplicity and seasonality. Fresh produce from Allison’s Stix Farm takes centre stage, featuring dishes like pumpkin agnolotti with smoked almond and sage, as well as grilled baby octopus with burnt zucchini vinaigrette.
For meat lovers, there’s a focus on quality cuts. David Blackmore Wagyu takes pride of place, with dry-aged steaks butchered on-site. Intriguing options like the handkerchief steak – a thinly sliced cut of topside – showcase Costelloe’s playful take on classic dishes.
For something beyond the cut, grilled mushrooms are served on crisp panisse and market fish dishes offer depth and variety. And for those who prefer to forgo meat entirely, a selection of vegetable-based dishes ensures a satisfying meal.
The ethos of 20 Chapel extends beyond the menu. The wine list, described as “gorgeous,” reflects a curated selection, while the steak knives – sourced from a Portuguese artisan on a whim – add a touch of unexpected charm. Even the signature cocktail, a Negroni on tap featuring gin from nearby Poor Tom’s Distillery, highlights the restaurant’s commitment to supporting local producers.
20 Chapel isn’t aiming to be a flashy newcomer. It aspires to be a dependable addition to the Marrickville scene offering a warm welcome and a menu that celebrates quality ingredients, all delivered with a touch of understated elegance.
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