‘Sushizza’ is the bizarre pairing of two food greats at Sash Japanese in Windsor, and it’s genius.
The first thing you’ll notice about Sash Japanese is its length; a long bar followed by a lengthy hallway lounge leading into yet another outstretched length running straight past the open kitchen and through to the glass-fronted cellar.
Each appendage couples industrial elements, like heavy iron lamps and brutalist stonework, with a kind of too-cool-to-be-cosy wood-based garden shed-chic; an interesting interplay that also resounds on the menu.
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The next thing you’ll notice is the familiar flavours on the menu that are paired with surprising flourishes. There’s the usual spicy tuna and chilli mayo prawns along with interesting jewels on the menu like swordfish kiwi open poke or the apple crumble pizza + miso caramel. Salivating? You should be. Head Chef Ken Tut (previously Ichi Ni and Ichi Ni Nana) has done an excellent job and his team of chefs served up easily the best one-side seared tuna I’ve ever had the delight of encountering.
But the big question is, what is it that makes a pizza Japanese? Well, being served in a Japanese restaurant seems to be a good start. Furthermore, there’s two categories to choose from: ‘Pizza’ and ‘Sushizza’. Although an awkward elision, sushi and pizza involves excellent combinations: hoisin duck, orange and ginger or perhaps the sticky pulled pork, sweet chilli and apple slaw takes your fancy. Sushizzas are served on a rice base whereas the pizza is served simply on a signature traditional base with seaweed.
You’ll find Dragon’s Milk on the cocktail menu, and you’d be silly not to try it. A scintillating mix of cloudy sake and coconut water with pear and lemon. It’s like a sophisticated holiday in a glass. And thankfully, with a cocktail bar thats up to standard, stocked with an array of Japanese sakes to boot, you won’t find yourself begrudging the distance back to the bar.
If you’re a sucker for sake, sashay along to Bosozuku in South Yarra afterwards to sample their selection of Japan’s national drink.
Sash Japanese
Open seven days 5.30pm – 11pm
113 Chapel St, Windsor, VIC, 3181
www.sashgroup.com.au