Sweet, spicy and slightly unhinged, this ice cream sandwich is dividing opinion (in the best way).

There are certain food combinations that make you go “wait, really?” and then order it anyway because something about the description won’t leave you alone. Toki Bistro & Bar’s wasabi ice cream sandwich is very much that combination.

It’s part of their new à la carte menu, and it’s exactly what it sounds like: caramel-laced wasabi ice cream, house-made choux pastry, warm dark chocolate, crushed pistachios. The kind of dessert you describe to your friends the next day, and watch their faces do something interesting.

Behind it is Group Executive Chef Jacob Lee, whose background spans Michelin-starred kitchens across New York and Seoul, so while wasabi ice cream might sound like a bit of a wild swing, it’s a very deliberate one. The heat creeps in slowly, the caramel keeps things grounded, and the choux is light enough that none of it feels like too much. It just feels like exactly enough.

If you’re someone who orders the thing on the menu that makes you slightly nervous, this one’s for you. And if you’re not usually that person, maybe start here.

Quick bites

• What to Eat: The wasabi ice cream sandwich (obviously), weird, wonderful, and surprisingly balanced
  What to Drink: A crisp sake or a clean cocktail to cut through the richness
  When to Go: Date night with a twist or when you’re feeling a little adventurous
  Cost: Desserts from $18
  Where to Play After: Wander down towards the harbour or bar-hop through North Sydney’s growing nightlife pocket
  Vibe Check: A spot that doesn’t play it safe
  Book It: Reserve a table at Toki Bistro & Bar here.