Tucked away on the ever-buzzing Crown Street in Surry Hills, this much-loved Italian wine bar has been serving locals since 2005.

Now, under the direction of head chef Cami Feliciano, Mille Vini is entering a new era, complete with flaming burrata, house-baked focaccia, and a pasta menu that’ll have you planning your next visit before dessert arrives. It’s the kind of spot that feels intimate but not intimidating, perfect for a date night or that long-overdue catch-up with your best mate.

Begin with oysters topped with tobiko and mignonette or truffle squid ink brioche, layered with pesto, white truffle oil, and grana padano. There’s also an 18-month San Daniele prosciutto served with figs and gorgonzola cream – the kind of dish that makes winter worth waiting for.

But it’s the rosemary and sea salt focaccia that chef Cami is most proud of. Made in-house over two days, it’s crispy on the outside, soft and pillowy on the inside, and served with a changing “butter of the day” – like brown butter with sage or citrus-infused whipped butter. “I had something really specific in mind, and when I couldn’t find it, I just started experimenting,” says Cami. “I tweaked the recipe for two weeks to get the texture and salt just right.”

And then there’s the burrata – not just any burrata, but one that arrives with a flaming finish. A seasonal fruit medley is torched with bourbon tableside and added to the dish, alongside pinot noir vinaigrette, vin cotto, and greens. It’s a moment of theatre you can eat.

For mains, pasta is king. The paccheri with smoked pork chorizo is smoky, bold and rich; the gnocchi crema di zucchine is bright and herbaceous. If you’re in the mood for seafood, the southern squid ink spaghetti is a must – tangled with blue swimmer crab, southern NSW squid, white wine and bottarga.

To drink, expect unique wines by the glass or bottle and classic cocktails with an Italian accent. Or opt for the $99 set menu, with matching wines for $49, for a full taste of what Mille Vini is doing this season.

Whether you’re escaping the cold or chasing the romance of it, Mille Vini is bringing the heat in all the right ways this winter.

Mille Vini is open from 4:30pm to 11pm Tuesday to Friday, 12pm to 11pm Saturdays, and 1pm to 10pm Sundays.