Don’t be turned off by the queue, the new Devon Cafe is worth it.
Nestled beneath the towering shadows of brand new sky scrapers in Barangaroo, you’ll find Devon Cafe. Staying true to the original venue in Surry Hills, Devon Cafe in Barangaroo brings the same level of quirkiness, serving up inventive, Asian inspired dishes.
A couple of weeks ago, shortly after the grand opening, we stopped by for a quick lunch. Despite having just opened, Devon Cafe was brimming with diners. Every one of the 75 seats was occupied with a sharply dressed office worker enjoying a break from their computer screen. In a show of efficiency, we didn’t have to wait long and were quickly shown to our seat at the bar.
The former shipping yards of Barangaroo and Walsh Bay inspired this bright, contemporary space. It incorporates loose nautical references with a blue colour palette, buoy-like lighting and bleached timber tables. Elements of Devon on Danks still remain and have been reused, salvaged and up-cycled from the former Waterloo venue.
The famous Devon ‘quirkiness’ comes through on the new brunch menu designed by Executive Chef and owner Zachary Tan and Head Chef Morris Baco. To begin with, we sampled one of the house ‘Sambos’ filled with Korean fried chicken, ssamjang sauce, kimchi mayo, and cabbage (only available on weekdays). Not unlike the sandwiches you expect to come out of a five-year old’s lunch box, our chicken order came served on white, fluffy bread, complete with the crusts cut off. Not an inch of wholemeal or sourdough in sight. Aside from chicken, other fillings include bacon and ebi katsu, Japanese omelette and eggplant parmi. Fries are extra but well worth it, seasoned with a salty, chilli crumble.
Next we went for more of a breakfast option, tucking into two buckwheat blinis (similar to large savoury pancakes) served with citrus cured king salmon, poached eggs, salmon caviar, brocolini, maltaise sauce. This was deliciously different – combining the texture and fluffiness of a pancake with lunch veggies and fish.
To finish on a lighter note, we ordered the ‘Devon Waldorf’ with celery, fuji apple, lettuce, grapes, walnuts and poached chicken, dressed with a Japanese goma sauce. Again, this dish took an ordinary salad to the next level mixing candied walnuts with a sweet Asian-infused dressing.
If you haven’t been down to Barangaroo recently, add it to the list. There’s a whole sweep of hot new dining spots including Ume Burger, Lotus and Zushi… to name a few. If you do swing by, don’t forget to visit Devon for a coffee, snack or lunch. It’s well worth it.
Insider tip: Hours for the venue are expected to extend to dinner in the new year, with an array of Asian-inspired tapas dishes and a menu of beer, wine, and cocktail.
Devon Café Barangaroo
Located near David Jones at shop 9, 200 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo NSW, 2000
Open Mon – Fri: 6:30am-4:30pm, weekends: 9:00am-4:30pm